![]() ![]() Corn snakes are primarily terrestrial but are active and known to climb readily. As for size, an adult corn snake should ideally have a minimum 3ftx2ftx2ft enclosure. Snakes are known escape artists, so getting a lock for the doors is highly recommended. Glass terrariums such as those by ExoTerra can also be a viable option with correct heating. If you have any questions about preparing your reptile or how to weigh it, feel free to reach out to us at The Tye-Dyed Iguana.A wide wooden vivarium such as a Vivexotic works well for corn snakes as they hold warmth well. You’ll know that brumation is over when your pet again moves around actively in its enclosure. You should give it a 10 to 15 minute soak in room temperature water and then put it back in its brumation location. When it loses weight during this state, it means it has lost water. Your pet may wake to drink and return to its brumation state.Īs a safety measure, weigh your exotic pet every couple of weeks during brumation. Again, do not feed anything, but do keep a water dish available. The animal will need moisture in the air so it doesn’t dehydrate, but it should not be kept in a wet area. You also want to get the humidity right in the brumation area. It’s okay if the temperature of the room fluctuates a bit. Do not put your pet in an area that gets colder than 50 degrees. This should be a lesser used room of the house, like a basement or laundry room, with cooler temperatures, between 50 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the adjustment period is over, it’s time to move your pet to its brumation location. ![]() Don’t feed your exotic pet during this period. Your herp should be kept at about room temperature at this time. This gives the animal time to adjust to a cooler temperature. Leave the heat and light off in your reptile’s habitat for 1 week. ![]() Once the bowel is cleared, remove the heat and lighting. Otherwise, the food will rot and possibly kill your reptile because digestion stops during brumation. This gives it time to digest and clear its bowel. Keep your normal heat and light setup for about 14 days after your pet’s last meal. Captive snakes, lizards, or tortoises may enter a pseudo-brumation state in which they eat much less and are less active, but don’t fully brumate.Įven in captivity, reptiles that are going to brumate tend to do so in colder months, so if the weather is turning cool and you notice food refusal and lots of sleeping, that’s your pet’s cue. If your pet doesn’t show any sign that it wants to enter a less active state, then you don’t really need to do anything to artificially induce such a state. The first thing to know about preparing a reptile for brumation is to watch its cues. It should also be noted that some reptiles that normally would brumate in the wild may not do so in captivity. This is not a complete list, so you should check with a reptile expert to learn whether your herp might brumate. So if it appears that they are, they likely have a health problem that needs to be checked out by an exotics vet. Tropical reptiles should not enter a brumation state. But if you own a snake or lizard from tropical climates, like a ball python or iguana, it’s a bad sign if it looks like it’s trying to hibernate. Animals from temperate climates are likely to have evolved for a long winter sleep during the colder months. Which reptiles brumate?įirst of all, it’s important to know whether the reptile you own should enter a brumation period. We’ve compiled this short guide to everything you want to know about reptile brumation. If you’re a new exotic pet owner, no worries. It’s similar to the hibernation period of some mammals, except that when your lizard, snake, or tortoise does it, it’s called brumation. You may not be aware that some reptiles go through a winter sleep. Brumation probably isn’t a word you hear often in association with your exotic pet, or ever really, unless you’re a herp expert.
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